How To Train Rabbit For Pet And Food

 

BACKYARD RABBIT FARMING

Raising rabbit is a fun. It can be one of the important micro livestock enterprises which have high potentiality in the North­Eastern hill region of India as meat is considered an important part of the usual diet of the people of this region and they consume almost all kind of meat. Livestock farming is one the major occupation of the local inhabitants but still this region is not self-sufficient in meat production. About 45% of the total requirement of the region is met by importing the meat animals from other states. In this context, exploration of non-conventional animal species like broiler rabbit can provide better scope to fulfill meat demand of the region to certain extent. Moreover, the meat value of rabbit is almost same as chicken. In addition to meat production, rabbit fur and skin can be utilized for making purse, hand-gloves, shawl, toy etc.

Table 1. Nutritional Value of Rabbit and Other Common Meats.

Skinless	Protein	Fat	Calories	Cholesterol
Meat	(%)	(%)	(per g.)	(mg per g.)
Rabbit	22.8	6.3	1.55	1.94
Beef	29.9	10.1	2.15	2.57
Catfish	22.3	5.9	1.41	0.70
Chicken	28.9	7.4	1.90	2.82
Lamb	28.1	9.5	2.04	2.75
Pork	27.7	14.8	2.11	2.53
Turkey	28.9	4.9	1.69	2.29

Source: USDA.

 

There are several advantages that make rabbit an important meat producing animal:-

1.    Small body size makes it easier to maintain in backyard and a small unit requires limited space.

2.    Rabbit is a prolific breeder and can be bred at any time of the year. With shorter gestation period of 30 days only, 4-5 crops can easily be obtained in a year from a single female rabbit.

3.    Rabbit matures at an early age and becomes ready for production by 6-7 months.

4.    Rabbits do not compete with food for human consumption. A small unit of rabbitry can be maintained in backyard with kitchen/vegetable waste, grasses, tree leaves, etc.

5.    Rabbit grows fast and attains a body weight of 1.5-1.8 kg within 12-14 weeks and provides nutritious and wholesome meat.

6.    Backyard rabbitry provides enjoyable occupational activity for children and rich manure for garden. It is also a potential source of extra income for house hold.

Selection of Breed:

There are about 38 breeds and 89 varieties of domestic rabbits as recognized by American Rabbit Breeders Association. However, 2 broiler breeds New Zealand White and Soviet Chincilla were found to be suitable for NEH region as they are well adapted to the agro climatic condition of this region. ICAR Regional Center for NEH region Barapani is maintaining both of these breeds in its farm.

Housing:

Rabbit house should be constructed in an elevated area for easy drainage and shaded area for reduction of heat stress is preferred. Location should be free from dust, fumes, smoke, predator animals, etc. and should have easy access to water and electricity. Rabbits can be reared in following three kinds of housing systems:

a)    Cage system: Cages can be kept on wooden or concrete racks inside a shed. The shed may be permanent type which is half walled with brick and iron wire netting above it and cemented floor with proper drainage system. The roof may be made with CGI sheet or asbestos. Semi-permanent type shed can be constructed with locally available materials like wooden posts, plank, bamboo, thatch, etc. Here the floor may be kutcha type or cemented but proper drainage should always be there for easy cleaning. The cages are to be kept on racks inside the shed by keeping a common passage between the rows. Cages can vary in size but generally they are of 3 feet by 2 feet by 15 inch height and made with welded wire mash (16-18 gauge) with a hole size 3 by 4 inch. Cages should not be made with wood as rabbit chews and consumes it and also difficult to clean as it absorbs urine, water, etc. Cages can also be kept in tier system inside the shed for efficient space and labour utilization.

b)    Hutch system: The hutches can be made with iron, bamboo or wood. Roofing can be either of CGI sheet or thatch. Flooring should be made of wire mesh for easy cleaning, the size of each compartment should be 3 inch X 3 inch X 3 inch. Few numbers of compartments can be constructed together in a hutch which can be shifted from one place to another. Partition between compartments may be made with wooden plank, bamboo or wire mesh. Hutches can be kept in shady place during summer to reduce heat stress or thatch may be given over the CGI sheet roof to keep it cool.

c)     Floor system: This system is similar to deep litter system of poultry rearing where rabbits are kept on the floor in a house. The floor space requirement per rabbit is 4 square feet and the house may be partitioned to keep rabbits of different categories like grower, fryer, adult male and female, etc. separately.

General management of rabbits:-

Breeding:

Rabbits of both sexes attain sexual maturity at 6-7months of age. Female rabbit is taken to the male rabbit cage for breeding and it is done either in the morning or in the evening. Successful mating is generally over within seconds and the male will fall down from the female making a characteristic sound. It is better to mate the female twice in the same day, once in the morning and another in the evening to get better conception rate and higher litter size at birth. The gestation period of rabbit is 30 days and around 20 days after mating, doe should be kept separately in nest box. Before kindling (act of giving birth by rabbit) the doe plucks fur from her body to make a nest for the young ones. However, extra bedding material like gunny bag, paddy straw or saw dust is necessary to put within the nest.

Care of new born:

Kindling in most cases takes place at night and generally no assistance is required. A doe gives birth to 6-12 nos. of young ones with an average of 6nos. in one kindling. Rabbits are born blind and naked. They start developing hair 4 days after birth and open eyes after lOdays. For the first 20 days the baby rabbits’ only food is their mother’s milk. Does nurse their kits only once a day, usually in the early morning hours for about 3 to 4 minutes. It may happen, especially in a large litter that some of the young ones are weaker and are not able to compete with others in suckling milk. Here the farmer can check every baby rabbit and those underfed can be exclusively made to suckle again. In certain cases, the doe does not allow her babies to suckle at all. In such cases the farmer can feed the young ones on cow’s milk with cotton or dropper. The baby rabbits start coming out of the nest after 15-16days and show fondness for green grass and concentrates while they continue suckling the doe. Gradually they start eating more solid food and suckle less from the doe.

Weaning:

After 42-45 days the litter is separated from the doe. Preferably the doe should be taken away and the litter should be kept in the same cage so that they don’t have much separation shock. After weaning the rabbits can be fed on green fodder, vegetables and concentrates.

Management after weaning:

The young rabbits are tagged at 8-10weeks of age and the growers should be housed separately. The selected breeding does and bucks should be fed well so that they grow faster. The does are ready to mate when they attain 60% of the total adult body weight.

Feeding and watering:

Feed requirements of the rabbits differs with the stage of growth. The average intake of balanced concentrate feed by an animal ranges from 120-150 grams per day which should be given twice daily, in the morning and in the evening. The palleted feedfortified with mineral mixture, vitamin and salt can be supplemented with green fodder or hay. Greens are preferably offered in the evening because rabbits are most active during this period.

A small unit of rabbit in backyard system can also be well maintained with kitchen and vegetable waste along with some selected grasses, tree leaves and root crops.

Clean and fresh water should be provided ad libitum throughout day and night.

Health coverage:

Health coverage is one of the important aspects of profitable rabbit farming. Some of the important diseases of rabbit, their symptoms and preventive /control measures to be taken are mentioned below:-

1) Coccidiosis: It is characterized by loss of appetite, pendulous and distended abdomen followed by progressive weakness, constipation and diarrhea, rough hair coat and lies in the cage with sleepy eyes. For prevention of this disease, 30 ml of Sulmet is mixed in 4 it of water and given for 2 days followed by 15 ml of medicine in 4 it of water for 4 days once in a month. For curative purpose some medicine can be given @ 1.5 ml per kg body weight for 2 days followed by 0.75 ml per kg body weight for another 4 days.

2)    Ear canker or mange: It is caused by mites which attack the inside of the ear causing inflammation and severe irritation. Animal feels restless due to constant itching of the ear. Necrotic tissues may be found inside the ear. As treatment, crusts and scales are removed with the help of wool and Butox or Loraxne lotion can be applied. Ascabiol is also effective against body mange and ear canker.

3)    Pasteurellosis: Pasteurella multocida causes a variety of diseases in rabbits - snuffles, pneumonia, otitis, conjunctivitis and abscess. The main symptoms of snuffles are thick sticky white discharge from nose with constant sneezing. The animal wipes away the discharges with its fore legs. Is is not a fatal disease but can lead to the development of pneumonia if not treated. Snuffles and pneumonia can effectively be treated by a combination of 400000 IU of Penicillin and 0.5 grams of Streptomycin administered intramuscularly. Conjunctivitis and abscesses can also be treated effectively with suitable antibiotics.

4)    Aflatoxicosis: It occurs mostly due to feeding of concentrate feed stored for long time, preferably in damp or moist places. The disease is characterized by loss of appetite, distended abdomen and abortion in pregnant animals. It causes high mortality. When the affected animal is shaken with both hands it gives a distinct gurgling sound. For prevention of this disease fresh and dry feed should be offered to the animals. Feed should not be stored in damp places and molded feed should be discarded.

Predator Control

In backyard rabbit production, predator attacks are more emotionally disturbing than causing direct loss to the stock. The predator can be the pets; snakes; or even insects like ants and wasps. So careful management is essential to prevent losses from predators. Many times predators gain entry through the gate or they break open the cage, so the cages or hutches should be strongly built and the gates should be well secured and locked. Sometime even the predator may not succeed in breaking the cage or hutch, but due attack may cause serious injuries to rabbits. The best strategy for this is to keep large predators away from the rabbitry by placing the cages or hutches inside a fence. Snakes may create trouble for young kits so they must be watched properly during 1^st two weeks of age.

Insect some time creates problem but it can be controlled by regular inspection of the nests and removal of dead kits after birth from the nest box soon after kindling. Nest box should be checked regularly and all the young dead kits should be removed regularly. These dead young kits if not removed timely they attract ants. Kits must be kept covered with fur as one hand it keep them warm and on other it protects the kits from the bites of the flies and mosquitos. Commercial insecticides, if used, should be used only according to the labeled directions. Insecticides must be kept it a safe place and away from the nests, feed and water of the rabbits. Predators causes direct harm, whereas insects including house fly increases the chance of diseases so sufficient care to control both should be taken to enhance the productivity and reduce the spread of disease.

Slaughter for meat purpose:

Rabbits are generally slaughtered for meat purpose at the age of 90 days when it weighs about 1.8-2.0 kgs. The dressing percentage of fryer is about 65 % and the skin obtained after slaughtering can be processed for making shawl, hand gloves, jacket, bag, etc.

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Essential Things You Need to Know About Raising Guinea Fowl

                      
       It goes without question that Guinea fowl are one of the most unusual, quirky and wacky birds around and their babies are no different. Guinea fowl babies, also known as keets, are rambunctious, excitable and- if we’re being honest- some of the doughiest creatures around. Caring for young Guinea fowl keets is one of the most rewarding experiences you can have with an animal. So long as you have a sense of humour, a little patience and are well informed, raising Guinea fowl keets will be a breeze.

 What to expect from Guinea fowl keets

Guinea fowl keets are cute, chirpy, curious and clumsy things that you’ll definitely need to keep an eye on, but the good news is they are so much fun to watch. They scurry about the brooder dazed, confused and excited seemingly without any sense of what they are or where they’re going.  This leaves them unfortunately prone to accident, such as dislocated legs, which often results in death if it occurs at an early age.

What do I need to know about brooders?

A brooder is essentially a safe, temperature controlled space- normally an extra-large plastic container- that your Guinea fowl keets will be able to spend the first two to six weeks of their life. Some people however renovate their chicken tractors, like the Taj Mahal, into temporary brooders, by positioning the tractor on top of a tarp indoors and inserting heat lamps inside the tractor.

Coat the floor of your brooder with newspaper or non-toxic hemp bedding. Avoid other beddings, such as sawdust, otherwise you’re Guinea fowl keets will mistake it for feed and end up with some very upset tummies.

The brooder needs to be kept at approximate 35 degrees Celsius, otherwise your Guinea fowl keets might get a bit cold. A carefully positioned heat lamp with a thermometer strategically placed at the bottom of the brooder is the simplest way to ensure your keets stay warm during this early period of their life. If you’re Guinea fowl keets are huddled together with their eyes closed or squinted, this is a sure sign that they are feeling cold and you will need to warm the brooder up.

One of the fabulous things about Guinea fowl keets is the fact that their droppings are an easy to clean dry and powdery substance. The easiest way to clean the brooder is to relocate the baby keets to a safe place, remove the bedding, wipe down the interior of the brooder with a natural cleaner and reline the inside with fresh bedding. Extra points if you use the droppings as fertiliser for your compost.

Guinea fowl keets grow especially quickly over the first two weeks and it might be tempting to let them out of the brooder sooner than it is recommended. Generally speaking Guinea fowl keets should remain inside the brooder for the first six weeks of their lives, but feel free to give them excursions to your living room, bathroom or backyard. So long as you monitor the keets as they begin to explore the world, they should remain safe from any of the dangers ahead of them.

guinea-fowl-keet-chick

What do the baby Guinea fowl keets eat and drink?

Adult Guinea fowl are one of the most self-reliant poultry birds around. They are able to graze in your garden all day, eating entire armies of bugs and insect, whilst scavenging all other kinds of treats and goodies. As most Guinea fowl keets won’t be safe to graze in the wild it’s important that you give them plenty of feed while they’re inside the brooder. Simply scatter the feed atop of the newspaper and they will delightedly peck and feed for hours.

Of course Guinea fowl keets need to drink water. The important thing to note about this is the fact that you will need to secure a drown-proof waterer, otherwise you might wake up one morning to find a nasty surprise inside your brooder.

What to expect if something bad happens to my Guinea fowl keets?

One of the sadder realities about Guinea fowl keets is that if they’re exposed to some kind of trauma during the first few weeks, the more anti-social and fiercely independent they will become. For example, if the other keets tease, bully or attack one particular baby Guinea fowl, it is likely that they will become less socialised as an adult. An anti-social Guinea fowl will be more inclined to chase, tease or act aggressively towards other animals and even humans.

How are Guinea fowl keets raised in the wild?

Guinea fowl have many charms but they are definitely not known for being good parents. Guinea fowl mothers tend to isolate their nest in the wild and savagely protect it from other birds, animals and even humans. Whilst caring for the eggs Guinea fowl are dedicated and caring parents committed to the cause of their children. However, once the Guinea fowl keets have hatched the mothers tend to lose interest, wander off and quite generally neglect their young baby keets. The unfortunate truth is that often in the wild a mother might hatch upward of twenty keets however perhaps as few as five will make it to adulthood. Some owners take young Guinea fowl keets under their wings when they are a few days old, once the mother has abandoned them. However be cautious before swoop in and take the baby keets, as the mother may get offended and try to keep them for herself.

Where can I get Guinea fowl keets from?

Most Guinea fowl breeders will also sell the keets, from as little as one day old. It’s in your best interest to get as young a Guinea fowl keet as possible, as they have trouble adjusting the new environment as they get older, which you can read about here. It’s probably best to call the breeder and arrange a suitable time to come and collect the keets, as they are likely to know when the next batch of Guinea will hatch. Sites like Chicken Sales can put you in contact with breeders of Guinea fowl or chickens in your area.

Raising Guinea fowl keets is a delightful, grin-inducing experience that will help you appreciate the little things in life. So long as you are understand the basics and are prepared for the touch of silliness the Guinea fowl will bring to your life, it’s bound to be a rewarding experience.

Once your Guinea fowl have come of age it’s important that they have a safe and sturdy coop to rest in at the end of a fun day eating bugs, like the Taj Mahal, Penthouse and Mansion. Be sure you find out more about how you can keep Guinea fowl with chickens, especially if you’re planning on getting a big and comfortable coop.

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Rabbits for sell

Buy rabbit from rabbit farm you Can Trust For Best Rabbit Stock for 

•         Rabbit for pet.

•         Rabbit For Show.

•         Rabbit for school/ university practicals.

•        Rabbit Meat.

                     Don't Hesitate To Call:   09027378379  For Delivery.  

    

           Price of rabbit and   How we sell

2–3 months old     ....................      #1500

4–5months old     ....................       #3000

6–10 months old     ....................    #4000

1yr + old                   .....................    # 5000

Pregnant rabbit        ...................     #10,000

          Visit: How to start profitable rabbit farm in Nigeria

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Goat farming business plan for beginners

  All business requires a suitable business plan for starting it. As goat farming is a  profitable business idea, so it is very necessary to make a proper goat farming business plan before starting this business.
Generally goat farming project requires less capital and investment than raising any other livestock. Therefore, you can start goat farming business with a very small investment and get more profits than you expected.
  Goat Farming Business Plan For Beginners
High profit within a very short time, little investment, huge global demand are the main reasons of spreading this business rapidly throughout the world. If you are new in this market then first of all you should meet with some successful goat producers and visit some farms. As a result of visiting some farms and producers you will get some clear idea about the pros and corns of this business. This will help you running your business perfectly. However, for making a suitable goat farming business plan read the following criteria very carefully.
   Goat Products
The first thing is to make a decision of what you really want to produce and sell from your goat farming business. Goats are multi-purpose animals. You can produce the products like milk, meat, fiber, manure and skin form goats. Do a market survey near you to understand which goat products have a high demand in the market. Try to produce those products which you can sell easily in your local area and in the market. Otherwise you will not gain as expected.
For an example, you have established a dairy goat farming business. And your goats are producing milk highly. But there are a little or no goat milk consumer in your local market. Then what will you do with your product? This is the question you should ask yourself. So, always keep in mind this factor and try to produce those products which you can sell easily in your local market. If you have a good facility of marketing your products internationally then you can produce any product from your farm. However, make a good decision of what you are going to produce form your goat farming business.

  Meat: Nowadays goat meat has a great demand internationally. And this rate is increasing rapidly day by day. A report shows that about 70% of total consumed meat globally comes form the goat. If you have sufficient facility of selling goat meat in your local market then you can start raising some highly meat productive goat breeds such as Boer, Beetal, Matou, Black Bengal etc. are highly meat productive goat breeds.

 Milk: Goat milk is enriched with many necessary nutrition elements and it is easily digestible. As a result it has huge demand in local and international market. Goat milk is also very suitable for making all types of dairy products. If you can sell goat milk in your nearest market easily then you have to choose some highly milk productive goat breeds. Some highly milk producing goat breeds are Saanen, Jamunapari , Toggenburg,
Anglo Nubian , Alpine etc.

 Fiber: Cashmere and Angora goat are very suitable if you want to produce fiber form your farm. Both are highly fiber productive.

Skin: All goat breeds produce skin. But few of them produce high quality skin. For business purpose Black Bengal goat produces high quality skin. And their skin has a high demand and value in the international market. Before start raising goats for skin be sure that there is a market available for selling your product.

Manure: Some crop farmer uses goat manner in their field. It is a very high quality organic fertilizer. You can earn some extra money by selling the manure of goat.
             
              Goat Housing
Commercial goat farming needs suitable house for profitable production. Serious goat producers make separate house for their goats. You should make such a house which can provide all types of facilities for your goats. Good house keeps the goat healthy and free from diseases. This directly increases the production. So, before starting consider how comfortable house can you make for your goats. Investment in housing is fixed. And you can use one house for several years.
          Feeding Goats
Goats are ruminants. They eat almost all types of crop, corn and leaves. It would be better if you have a grazing place where your goats can roam freely. In this system your goat will get food from natural sources and it also reduce your food cost. In case of raising goats by providing them home made supplementary feed be sure that all feed elements are easily available in your local market. Also ensure sufficient supply of clean and fresh water.
goat, goat farming, goat farming business plan,
        Health & Care
Always try to raise your goats in a hygienic environment . Sometimes your goats may suffer by various diseases. Make sure that a veterinarian doctor is available near your farm. If possible stock some necessary vaccines and medicines in your farm. And always vaccinate your goats timely.
       Suggestions and Question for you 
There are many factors related to this business. Before starting goat farming business, ask some questions to yourself.
Do you love goats? Loving the animals that you are raising is very important for success-fullness in any business.
Do you have any experience in this business? If not, contact with your nearest animal husbandry training centers or visit some farms.
Do you have enough capital for setting up your farm? You can also apply for bank loan.
Do you have enough facilities for goat farming? For example clean and fresh water source, cultivation of green feeds like plants or grasses, proper marketing, medication etc.
What is the market condition of your location? Try to understand the market demand and price of your products.
Do you have enough time & interest? This is very important for beginners.
Can you personally take care of your goats? Don’t depend on labors. Try to take care of your goats personally along with your labors. Learn more about their health and diseases management. If possible visit some farms practically for several days and try to learn everything related to this business.
Before starting goat farming business plan consider your budget and some other factor related to this business. How much capital do you have? How many facility can you provide to your goats with this capital? Which product do you want to produce form your farm? What are the natural facilities available there for goat farming? Is there any market for selling your products in proper price? Is there any grazing place near your farm? Can you provide provide proper treatment and medicines? If all the answers become positive then you should start goat farming business immediately. Wish your happy and profitable goat farming business.

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Guides On How To Build A Rabbit Hutch

When planning to build a rabbit hutch, different things are put into consideration. Those things includes;             

•        Size of the hutch 
•          Location 
•          Materials to use (Wood, Plastic, wire mesh)
•          Flooring e.t.c

       
         SIZE
Cage size is a very important factor to consider. Note that the minimum area a rabbit should be confined in is 12 square feet, but also they need additional space for exercise. I urge you to setup cage that will give them space to play and exercise freely.
  When planning and designing the cage, it's also advisable to think about anything to add in the cage - for instance, "a litter tray" so as to make sure they fit in your plans.
    Location
The size of the cage depends on the location of your cage. There is no point building the perfect cage and then finding it won't fit through a door way or is blocking a plug socket you need access to.
You may like to take advantage of a cupboard, space under the stairs, or alcove to build your that rabbit house. This is a good way to create a rabbit space without occupying too much space.
Note: Choose a location where your rabbit won't disturb your sleep if they choose to play at at night.
Read also: How to check or palpate Rabbit for pregnancy
      Materials
Your choice of materials to use in making your cage should be chew proof and non toxic. There are lots of options depending on how you want your cage to look and the needs of your rabbit.
  Wood
Most untreated wood is fine to use for example pine, - plywood is commonly used to build outdoor rabbit housing. MDF is toxic if the dust is inhaled, Different cuts of wood can be used for different purposes for example trim is good for covering edges that might get chewed and skirting board can make a nice tray.
Plastics
Corrugated plastic sheets (Correx) can be an easy to use building material - though they aren't very chew proof.
Wire Mesh
 I'd suggest using weld mesh if your cage will include a mesh section. Plastic or powder coated mesh can look better than bare wire. If you can buy coated mesh in the size/colour you'd like then you can coat your own using Plastikote Fast Dry Enamel, which is non toxic when dry and available in a range of colours.
Fitting the mesh on the inside of the frame generally gives a neater finish and also helps prevent your rabbit chewing the frame by limiting access.
     Flooring
Lino flooring is a nice option as it's cheap and can be cut to any size for easy to installation.
Fit it using double sided tape or flooring adhesive. The edges can then be finished off with bathroom sealant to give a neat finish, protect them from chewing and prevent any liquid running underneath. Alternatively you'll find a range of trims, either flat to cover joins or corner shaped to hide edges - this is a good option if you had trouble cutting the flooring edges neatly as they get hidden under the trim!
Tiles are also an option, though they take a little more skill to fit and can be slippy if too smooth. Keep in mind rabbits have fluff on the bottom of their feet, not pads, so can have trouble with slippery surfaces.
If you find your floor choice doesn't have enough grip, you can add a rug, woven mat or rubber stable matting over the floor afterwards.
    Shelves/Ramps
If you have the height available, adding a shelf to the cage can be a good way to add extra floor space and rabbits like to have a raised platform to rest/lookout from. A shelf can be supported with shelf brackets (like you'd use for a bookshelf) or if the walls are mesh, by slotting a couple of lengths of wood all the way through to span the gap and fixing a board on top. Notch the wood supports so they sit over the mesh to stop them moving.
If the shelf is quite low e.g. less than one foot (30cm) your rabbit maybe able to easily jump up and down without any help. For higher shelves, or less agile rabbits, you can add a ramp - easy to make from a flat piece of board with pieces of trim to create grip. Another alternative is a series of small shelves leading up to make steps. These take up less room than a ramp.

  Cleaning
when designing a rabbit cage, cleaning routine should be considered especially when planning for flooring. Always make sure that the doorways are wide enough for easy removal and cleaning of litter tray, ramps and boxes. Making a ramp removable can make sweeping around it a lot easier.
Avoid any small spaces between mesh and frame that can fill with hay and be difficult to clean.
You might also want to consider keeping the area around the cage clean - hay and litter has a tendency to spread well, so a substrate board/tray around the base of the cage will help keep mess contained if your rabbit start digging and throwing things around.

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Health Benefit of Quail Egg

                     QUAIL EGGS
 

Quail eggs are eggs obtained from the wild quail bird. It is midsized in shape. Quails are mainly found in North Africa, Europe, Southern United States, and some parts of Asia.Quails move quickly and can fly if the needed. Quail eggs are smaller compared to chicken and duck eggs, the egg shells have dots. The nutritional value of quail eggs includes; vitamins, minerals, antioxidants, phytonutrients, etc

Let’s talk about the amazing and great benefit of quail egg here
   1. Good For Eyes
Eating quail eggs on a regular basis has a great benefit especially at improving eyesight and protecting eyes from damage.
This benefit of quail eggs is mainly because of the presence of antioxidants like “Vitamin A” in them. Vitamin A is a vital nutrient for our eyes and plays an important role in keeping them healthy.
[Recommended]: Advantage of Quail Farming
    2. Prevents Cough And Eases Asthma:
Quail eggs treat many conditions and are
effective in treating cough and asthma. Many ancient civilizations have used quail egg yolk to treat psoriasis and eczema. The beneficial qualities of quail eggs have seen them feature as a commercial product, with the latest being quail egg extract capsules .
   3. Reduces Risk Of Terminal Illnesses:
 Anybody that has a low potassium count, runs the risk of contracting conditions like high blood pressure, arthritis, heart disease, stroke, cancer and digestive disorders among others. So, eat quail eggs to keep those potassium levels up. If quail eggs don’t sound too appetizing, consider eating quail egg extract capsules.
    4. Promotes Blood Formation:
Quail eggs are iron-rich. As u know Iron is an essential mineral, so it does not only boosts immunity, it also helps oxygenate your organs, tissues and other essential parts of the body. Iron also stimulates RBC formation, which boosts your blood health. Quail eggs contain potassium, which is beneficial for the blood.
     5. Boosts Immunity:
Quail eggs also help keep stomach disorders at bay. Quail eggs improve your body’s immune system. They also boost memory and increase brain activity. With their high iron content, quail eggs also help increase hemoglobin levels in your body. Quail eggs also rid your body of toxic compounds and metals that build up in the body.
[ Read: Hemoglobin Rich Foods ]
    6. Good For Growth
Consuming quail eggs on a regular and moderate basis have been found to be very beneficial for the overall development of our body.
This benefit of quail eggs is mainly because of the abundance of protein in them.
Protein is a vital compound required for the growth and development of our body.
Protein also plays a great role in the growth and the repair of the cells, worn out tissues, bones, muscles, blood vessels etc.
   7. Bone development
Quail egg is good for the development of bones. When we talk about bone,the first thing that comes to our mind is “Calcium”. Eating quail eggs on a regular basis have been found by researchers to be very beneficial for the development of bones, and for making them stronger, because of the presence of amino acid like “Lysine” in them.
 It plays an important and special role in the development of child bone.
In addition to this, other nutrients like iron, zinc, potassium etc. also plays a significant role in the development of our bones. Quail eggs also reduces the risk of osteoporosis by making our bones stronger, which is a condition caused by the weakening of bones.
   8. Improves Hair Quality:
Quail eggs are good for hair growth. Antioxidants present in the quail eggs protects hair and scalp from the oxidative damage that is caused by the free radicals and thereby reduces risk of premature graying of hair.The nutrients present in quail eggs straighten the hair, while making it shinier. Include quail eggs in your diet if you a strong and shiny hair. The nutrients in it also relaxes blood vessels of the scalp, improves blood circulation and thus promotes hair growth.
   9. Anti-Inflammatory:
Quail eggs are potent anti-inflammatory agents, which makes them an ideal food for anybody suffering from joint pains, chronic cough, and bronchitis. The anti-allergic tendency of quail eggs also boosts its anti-inflammatory characteristics.
   10. Good For People Allergic To Chicken Eggs:
 Quail eggs can be the perfect replacement for those that are allergic to Chicken eggs. Chicken egg can cause some reactions to those allergic to it, like excessive scratching, vomiting, stomach pain, and nausea. Quail eggs don’t cause allergies and have lesser allergens than chicken eggs. This anti-allergic benefit of quail eggs is due to the presence of ovomucoid protein in them.

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